A Traveling Class with Don George

Diposting oleh Unknown on Selasa, 06 November 2012




I literally run along a concrete pathway to be on time for a literary appointment this morning. I run because the last fifteen minutes was spent going back and forth trying to decipher where Swasti Eco Cottages actually is and a long early drive is something I’ve never been good at doing. The second helpful man finally gives me the correct clue and thus, allow me to find my way to what already feels like a treasure quest. Much like Dorothy and the yellow brick road, a continuous yellow flower usually used in Balinese offering, was placed to show this sleepy traveler that it is indeed the right way. After all, yellow flower in the canang sari offering does symbolize the power of intuition.  

Eventually, 20 participants are sitting in the open-air bamboo bale. Few Australian, some Indonesian, an American. A diverse, jovial and eager to learn bunch of people; those classmates of mine. Most of us are inspired to be a writer, some has published her and his works and one is currently writing a travel book. Our classroom is surrounded by greenery and occasional bleating from pet goats in the compound can be heard together with a crescendo of cock-a-doodle-doo and wild bird calls. Don George, a respected and well-known travel writer from the States is our teacher for the one day writing workshop. 


Travel writing seeks to illuminate a place; educating and inspiring people about the world and sharing what one’s learnt in one’s travel experience.“It’s about figuring out what you want to say, what and how did you learned in that journey,” says Don. It is also about excavating and deconstructing your experience. He takes us aroud the eco cottages and shares with us his experiences of editing, writing and traveling around the globe. “A sign of less sophisticated writer is using too much adjectives,” he says and oh boy, don’t we make fun of that statement afterward.


a delicious and healthy lunch provided by helpful staff of Swasti Eco Cottage, we continue our class by writing a paragraph about our experience in that place. Don gives us a liberty to write about anything we find interesting and later urges us to read it aloud (gasp!). For about twenty minutes all I hear are a scratch on paper, rickety bamboo chair being nervously moved and twenty brains excavating hidden, sophisticated adjectives from dusty drawers of dictionary. Few encouraging words and nervous glances later, the first writer speaks up, including yours truly. I’ve been joining a workshop like this a few time and only this time, I find the courage to read my writing in public and that writing becomes the first opening paragraph of this entry. 

A successul piece of writing is when the writer managed to guide the reader to experience what he or she has experienced. Hence, pay attention to the details and always be curious. 

Being in a travel writer set of mind allows you to become a better traveler. 

The Q and A session afterward is truly fascinating. Don tells us some behind-the-scenes anecdotes and stories and tips on how to get published, his favorite travel book and how travel writing won’t make anyone rich but “you get rich in the account of experience.” He even read an excerpt  from his 1978 notebook when Bali was part of his trip. 

This might be the best workshop class I have ever attended so far in Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. I don’t think I will drop everything and take the plunge to be a full time travel writer or a digital nomad anytime soon, but this class is giving me a more thorough understanding on how to be a better writer, an open-minded traveler and perhaps, if I’m lucky and if I work on my writing hard enough, get published. 
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Libra is.

Diposting oleh Unknown on Rabu, 17 Oktober 2012


This is not the time for harmony, balance, predictability, or polite relationships in your life. Everything changes. Everything – quickly, abruptly and deeply. It happens every 21 years, but not like this. This is new. New people, new experiences, new concepts, new sights to see. The positive intention in all of this is to bring some fresh air into your life and with that fresh air comes a clarity welcome to the soul. Good to walk your truth and let others walk theirs. Happy Birthday dear one. 

Taken from Dr. Deepak's Astroyak colum at The Yak magazine.
No shit Sherlock.

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Home Alone

Diposting oleh Unknown on Rabu, 08 Agustus 2012


thisisnothappiness.tumblr.com
I always thought that being alone was something I’m really good at doing. I went to a lot of places being solo: airplanes, movie theater, parties, sea. I traveled alone to foreign cities and loved the luxury of being on my own. It was a luxury,isn’t it? To be left alone, to do whatever you desire to do, to decide for your own good. To think, ponder and swim deep in your thought. Freedom. La vie boheme.

For as long as I remember, I’ve always required a great deal of space. “Leave me alone” was almost a motto during those rebellious teenage years (if you can say being left alone to read or paint in one’s room is rebellious, that is). Then I left home for college and spent a fantastic four years living by myself in a rat trap room the size of 3x3 metres. Ah the golden days of long nights! Much like Murakami’s characters in “Norwegian Woods”, all I did was read, read and read voraciously. I also  managed to watch 250 something movies in  just a year. By the end of college year, I thriumphantly read 423 books and watched 894 movies (yes, I’m a geek with a list). It’s amazing what you could do with your time when you have nothing to worry about or things to take care of, other than college projects. 

Then I came home. Home, at that time, means a dad, a mom, a little monkey brother and a dog. Extended family members included three uncles, two aunties, their spouses and offsprings and offsprings’s offsprings. Numerous birthday parties, weddings, funerals, hospital visits and countless babies happened. Then something happened and unexpectedly I had to earn our livelihood (and my books and movies). So much for the good old days when all I need to do to earn money was to go to the nearest ATM. 

There were three of us at home, then two, then now one. For us, The Mayan prediction was correct. Armageddon, after all, is not about Will Smith fighting alien invasion, but losing people that you love and there’s nothing you can do about it. Now, for the first time, I know what it feels like to be truly alone. Those four years in college was nothing. You could be a thousand mile away from your family but they were there and you knew that you are not alone. They got your back, there were another human beings that constantly have you in their mind, that would help you no matter what, that would still love you nonetheless. You were safe. Now, I’m not so sure anymore. I’m not sure about anything anymore. Life is too fucking mercurial. 

Now, I know what the fuzz is about regarding “the fear of dying alone and eaten by cats”. In my darkest hour, there was this possibility that I might slipped, hit my head in a shower, had severe internal bleeding. Extended family member might get curious after three days of no answer, came and found my dog went raving mad outside, and me, dead. Gulp. Scary. 

No wonder people get hastily married. Anything to avoid being alone and lonely. At least, if you get a concussion, there will be someone who will find you and whisked you away in a warm embrace and take you to the hospital. I haven’t got lucky in that departement. No potential spouse in sight although met few that would love to embrace but not taking me to the hospital in case of emergency. Hence, I kidnap a dear friend and proposed her to be my housemate. She said “I do”. We live together now, PJs party every night. It used to be my Mum who fashion policed me in the most important daily question of all: does my bum look big in this pants? Now I get to ask her. She’s not always around but her company means a familiar face, an answer, a question.

There are days when I’m alone with just a dog and a BlackBerry. There are bad days when I had to summon all the inner strength I have to just wake up and leave the bed, but there are also good days when I have something to look forward to, a purpose, a meeting, a chance. There are lazy days when cooking an instant noodle is just too much but there are also fantastic days when I feel like cooking paella. You can try to fight it by reading, watching Downton Abbey, get arak drunk, eat mushroom and hallucinating, have sex, party; but in the end, it will always be there. 

This living alone thing is just something that I have to get used to . To rely on myself more and not rely too much on somebody, to be able to change bulbs and fix the fish pond pump, to get used to breakfasting alone and the most difficult thing of all: to embrace cleaning (still ick). 

Living alone means facing yourself, the meanest demon of all. So I just have to love myself more and spend a good quality time with her. If the darkest hours come again, I’ll just have to embrace it and said “this too shall pass” and retreat to my inner garden and write about it or just dance with the loneliness like Kevin did when he was left alone at home on Christmas Day. 

I don’t know who will read this but I hope whoever you are, you will know too, that you are not alone in this battle with loneliness. We are in this together. 

We might be alone but we are not lonely.
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Bad Day

Diposting oleh Unknown on Senin, 16 Juli 2012


It’s mid-year already. The scary jittery time when we started to feel like another year has gone by and none of the new year resolution we optimistically made six months ago, didn’t quite materialised. I didn’t even make one this year. I’m old enough to know now that it was a futile attempt. Instead, I made a wish: that 2012 would be a good year. The usual requests: chance to travel, inspiring people to meet, good health for all of us, a nice boyfriend. It wasn’t much by any standard. 

Of course it didn’t come true. What happened so far is just the exact opposite. I lose my Mum at the beginning of this year and “only” went to Singapore (but I didn’t count it as travel, it was just a short visit to a neighbor). So yeah, 2012 so far is not really a good year. Every day since January 23, I’m waging a personal war. Every day is about survival. Finally I get what Bill Murray must have felt like in ‘Groundhog Day’. There are small twists here and there, but at the end of the day, it is a big Zen. Nothingness. That big fuzz about hypotetical Zombie Apocalypse? I am the Zombie.

When my Dad left, he took with him the certainty that ‘all will be well’, that childish security that whatever mischief we did or whichever way  we strayed, there will be someone who know how to fix it. Now, when my Mom joined him in that Haven, she took with her the abiding love that I used to take for granted so easily, the safe knowing that no matter what I did or who I become, there will be someone who will love me still. 

For the first time in my life, I know what it feels like to be scared of dying alone.
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W. Somerset Maugham : On Art

Diposting oleh Unknown on Sabtu, 23 Juni 2012


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words from book #1

Diposting oleh Unknown on Kamis, 14 Juni 2012


"In my heart was a desire to live more dangerously. I was not unprepared for jagged rocks and treacherous shoals if I could only have change - change and the excitement of the unforeseen" 
- The Moon and Sixpence, Maugham
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Travels with My Mother

Diposting oleh Unknown on Jumat, 01 Juni 2012


It was not cool. When the other backpackers were strutting their giant, back-bending backpack and exchanging gossips, travel wound, next destination and occassional flirt, I was stuck with a mother in various hostel lobby. I had to sacrifice some interesting bar hopping, meeting possible future travel buddies and other joyous, we-are-young-we-are-free night out. My mother couldn’t speak English beyond pleasantries and although endowed with a charm and winning smile, it would be impossible to leave her alone in a foreign land without proper watch.

She was a true Domestic Goddess. Her cooking, a rich fusion of Balinese, Chinese and  Indonesian food, could easily beat the hell out of Farah Quinn and her fake plastic nails. She loved being home, taking care of her kids and husband, the very thing that we are all dread to become. She loved it. She never had this urge to getaway and leave everything and just go... well, not until I took her to our first (mis)adventure to China. Since then, she occassionally would ask, so where are we going next?

We went to see panda together in Chengdu, awed by terracotta warriors inXi’an, cruising on top of the tourist river boat in Guilin,  a street away in Saigon, shop until we dropped in Chatuchak, met the King in Bangkok and walking around the ancienttown of Hoi An.  She’s way too easy to please: just take her to places with pretty scenery, lots of flowers and fresh fruits, not too much sunshine (neither too much snow) and she’d be happy. Being a direction challenged traveler that I am, there were plenty of time I told her to wait and allow me to read map or asking random locals. She didn’t mind that and trusted me absolutely. 

A friend asked me once, was it not difficult to have her with you? And I said: not at all. She just said yes to everything. How lucky, my Mum would just go all Nazi on me whenever we travel, she enviously told me. 

I am lucky. I am lucky I got to spent all those time traveling with her. I am lucky I made the decision to just took her and go. She passed away last January, right after celebrating Chinese New Year. She went into her room to sleep and never came out. In their desperate attempt to soothe my loss people always tell me: how lucky for her, that’s the best way to die. Most of the time I only can nod, bite the inside of my cheek and try not to blurt: but what about me? 

I can totally roam free now. No Mum to watch over and taking care of. I can book a ticket on a whim and just leave... except that I don’t want to do it. That something is amiss. That now if I book a ticket in my airline customer account, her name is still there, one click away. That I still unconciously googling ‘scenery’ or ‘flower market’ in the country I plan to visit. I just realized, I built my whole itenerary around her. At least, we had that memory. 

I know how grief works. I experienced it four years ago when Dad passed away. What I learned: time does heals, forgetting is impossible, letting go of regret is an art that you must mastered to survive, alcohol is sometimes your best friend and most importantly, surround yourself with positive people. It took me for years to heal. It will take me a lifetime to heal from this newly inflicted wound, but I know I’ll get there. Hey, I’m a veteran of loss. Renoir said it best: the pain passes, but the beauty remains.
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Bali: Now

Diposting oleh Unknown on Kamis, 19 Januari 2012


"In Bali, everything is about “fun”. People has all the access for that easily. If Alcohol is not satisfying enough, you can combine it with weed, or move to drugs, or just run into sex, or all of them. “Get wasted” they say. Sooner or later you would be dragged to see things they way those people do ” see man or woman as simply a potential sex buddy” instead of trying to see who they really are.

In another part of the island, some people come to find “answers”. They practice meditation, they do yoga, they eat expensive healthy food, they go to ashram to find some Gurus to tell them what they actually already have inside.

After 6 years, i still find it so difficult to find something that is real in Bali. Left alone to find real people. The local seems to keep losing their true identity, and the comer finds it as heaven to just exploit and destroy the nature of the island."

Those are excerpts I borrowed from a friend's blog, the talented Sita Teofani. She has lived in Bali for a few year and now tell the tale about her love/hate relationship with this cosmopolitan island. Her words mirrors my sentiment on what Bali has become. Sex. Drugs. Alcohol. Endless parties. Exploitation. Traffic. Over-population. The island, if She could talk, will surely grumble on the weight She has to carry.

I'm afraid for Bali. I'm afraid for this tiny island that everybody wants to own and pillage. I'm afraid what will we become in the next decade.

Will we persist? Will we be strong enough to absorb and re-create the best of current condition? Will we have a strong, wise and smart leader who think more than just his governing period and what he could benefit from it? Will we, as Balinese, able to unite and intelligently have our voices heard? Will we be able to criticize what needs to be criticized, focus on what's important and able to see beyond our limitation?

Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 2011 picked a wise quotation from a wise Balinese priest, Ida Pedanda Made Sidemen: "...idep beline mangkin makinkin mayasa lacur, tong ngelah karang sawah, karang awake tandurin..."

"...my intention now, pursuing the life of simplicity, (since) I don't have any ricefield, I (shall) cultivate the land within myself"

It is time, isn't it my fellow Balinese?

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"Already am, always was, and I still have time to be"

Diposting oleh Unknown on Jumat, 06 Januari 2012

2011 was an exciting year. A nuclear plantation leaked, few dictators were either couped or dead and economy went ballistic but for me 2011 was a year of wonder, travel, excitement, too much weddings and luckily only a few funeral.

Travel check list: Perth & Fremantle, Penang, Singapore, Vietnam (Saigon, Hue and Hoi An)

Notable performances: The Best of Andrew Lloyd Webber Musical Show at Burswood, WA; Zee Avi concert at Hu'u, Bali; ASEAN - Russian Symphony Orchestra of Young Musician at Bali Theater; Amiina performs live soundtrack to Lotte Reiniger's shadow puppet animation at National Museum of Singapore

Rather special museum experience: "van Gogh Alive" at Art Science Museum Singapore. Picture yourself walking or sitting with a moving blown up high resolution image of van Gogh masterpieces while Debussy was being played as the background music; a tour inside The Blue Mansion, Penang

Well, being: 30 days challenge hot yoga class successfully done and I now managed to do the boat pulling pose for 30 seconds straight.

Family milestone: two cousins got married (which means this year the spotlight will be directed to yours truly, ahem) and one of my best friend also said 'I do' in the most spectacular fashion: 3 days Indian wedding feast

Notable films: Micmacs (French), Heartbreaker (French), The Cove (USA), An Education (UK), 40 Years of Silence (USA), Midnight in Paris (USA), Hiphopdiningrat (Indonesian), Star Trek (USA), Dogma (USA), Jane Eyre (U.K), Easy A (USA), All About My Mother (Spain)

Notable books: Holy Cow (Sarah Macdonald), Cafe Scheherazade (Arnold Zable), Smile When You’re Lying: Confession of A Rogue Traveler (Chuck Thompson), The Best of Everything (Rona Jaffe), The Poisonwood Bible (Barbara Kingsolver), American Gods (Neil Gaiman), One Day (Mike Nicholls), The Book Thief (Markus Suzak), Beauty and Sadness (Yasunari Kawabata), A Storm of Swords (George R.R. Martin), How I Live Now (Meg Rosoff), Babette’s Feast (Isak Dinesen), White Rose, Red Rose (Eileen Chang)

Favorite new found activities: hot yoga, monthly book swap, morning yoga by the sea, self taught myself SEO optimization, letting my inner Nigella loose in the kitchen, ikebana, Sanur Film Nights screening on a bamboo house, bush walking, vineyard tour, ANZAC Day dawn ceremony, tie dye making

Notable food/drink: Asam Laksa at Guerney Hawker Center, Penang; Beef Pho at a random eatery on Saigon; Vietnamese Fresh Spring Roll (so much so I now able to roll it myself); Nasi Kandar and Banana Leaf Indian food at Penang; BOH Teh Tarik (less sweet); Old Town Cafe Ice Black Coffee; Lie Yen’s Salty Chicken and Pork at Jakarta

Notable series: Downton Abbey, Hot in Cleveland, The Game of Thrones, The Walking Dead, Modern Family

Decadent experience of the year: one night stay at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

I hope 2012 will grant me more experiences, things to explore and learn, places to go and interesting people to meet. May 2012 will keep my beloved close, healthy and safe despite the dire Mayan prediction. Most of all I hope 2012 will be a year for me to grow.

“…What made the beauty of the moon? / And the beauty of the sea? / Did that beauty make you? / Did that beauty make me? / Will that make me something? / Will I be something? / Am I something?

And the answer comes: Already am, always was, and I still have time to be.

(poem "Here I Am" by Anis Mojgani)

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