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A Traveling Class with Don George

Diposting oleh Unknown on Selasa, 06 November 2012




I literally run along a concrete pathway to be on time for a literary appointment this morning. I run because the last fifteen minutes was spent going back and forth trying to decipher where Swasti Eco Cottages actually is and a long early drive is something I’ve never been good at doing. The second helpful man finally gives me the correct clue and thus, allow me to find my way to what already feels like a treasure quest. Much like Dorothy and the yellow brick road, a continuous yellow flower usually used in Balinese offering, was placed to show this sleepy traveler that it is indeed the right way. After all, yellow flower in the canang sari offering does symbolize the power of intuition.  

Eventually, 20 participants are sitting in the open-air bamboo bale. Few Australian, some Indonesian, an American. A diverse, jovial and eager to learn bunch of people; those classmates of mine. Most of us are inspired to be a writer, some has published her and his works and one is currently writing a travel book. Our classroom is surrounded by greenery and occasional bleating from pet goats in the compound can be heard together with a crescendo of cock-a-doodle-doo and wild bird calls. Don George, a respected and well-known travel writer from the States is our teacher for the one day writing workshop. 


Travel writing seeks to illuminate a place; educating and inspiring people about the world and sharing what one’s learnt in one’s travel experience.“It’s about figuring out what you want to say, what and how did you learned in that journey,” says Don. It is also about excavating and deconstructing your experience. He takes us aroud the eco cottages and shares with us his experiences of editing, writing and traveling around the globe. “A sign of less sophisticated writer is using too much adjectives,” he says and oh boy, don’t we make fun of that statement afterward.


a delicious and healthy lunch provided by helpful staff of Swasti Eco Cottage, we continue our class by writing a paragraph about our experience in that place. Don gives us a liberty to write about anything we find interesting and later urges us to read it aloud (gasp!). For about twenty minutes all I hear are a scratch on paper, rickety bamboo chair being nervously moved and twenty brains excavating hidden, sophisticated adjectives from dusty drawers of dictionary. Few encouraging words and nervous glances later, the first writer speaks up, including yours truly. I’ve been joining a workshop like this a few time and only this time, I find the courage to read my writing in public and that writing becomes the first opening paragraph of this entry. 

A successul piece of writing is when the writer managed to guide the reader to experience what he or she has experienced. Hence, pay attention to the details and always be curious. 

Being in a travel writer set of mind allows you to become a better traveler. 

The Q and A session afterward is truly fascinating. Don tells us some behind-the-scenes anecdotes and stories and tips on how to get published, his favorite travel book and how travel writing won’t make anyone rich but “you get rich in the account of experience.” He even read an excerpt  from his 1978 notebook when Bali was part of his trip. 

This might be the best workshop class I have ever attended so far in Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. I don’t think I will drop everything and take the plunge to be a full time travel writer or a digital nomad anytime soon, but this class is giving me a more thorough understanding on how to be a better writer, an open-minded traveler and perhaps, if I’m lucky and if I work on my writing hard enough, get published. 
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This Weekend Will Be..

Diposting oleh Unknown on Senin, 03 Oktober 2011


funfuckintastic.

Pardon the f-word. Can't help it. October has always been my 'do-not-disturb-me' month since 2007. Ubud Writers and Festival is the sole reason. This lit groupie has been going around the island in a rampant buying trip to get as many books as possible and have them signed later. I will be in Ubud on Saturday and Sunday, attending as many session as possible and jotting down the smart lines those authors throwing to the audience.

I'm especially super excited to meet and hear from these authors:

Trinity 'The Naked Traveler' (whose blog I've been reading for few years about her adventures or misadventures as the rare breed of Indonesian backpackers. Her writing has always been fun, inspiring, enjoyable and self-deprecating)

Agustinus Wibowo (another breed of Indonesian travel writer/photographer who has a deep love and interest in Middle East countries)

Junot Diaz (I've only read one book of his but it's enough to made me in love with his work)

Alberto Manguel (the Father of All Bookish People and Thing. I hope they will sell his books because it's been almost impossible to find those).

Andrea Hirata (the Indonesian literary wunderkind who one day just started to write and writing is what he has been doing since then. A musical show based on his book just recently performed in Singapore).

and the others.... talented writers, poets, musician, artists who comes from the farthest corner of this globe and made it to Bali. I will see you all later.
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Counting the Days to 2010 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival

Diposting oleh Unknown on Rabu, 04 Agustus 2010


If you just wake up everyday, go to work and cari makan, that’s your preoccupation and you don’t think about other things. Reading a book could help you think about other things. It should be entertaining, but it should also help you think about things.
- Tash Aw, in an interview for Quill magazine

Two months from now (hopefully) I would be in a wooden lounge chair, sipping a freshly brewed fragrant Balinese coffee, hands busy scribbling on my Moleskine, brimming with ideas and inspiration from world's most prolific writers. Ubud's soulful breeze would be caressing my hair and love for words would be my intimate companion apart from the fellow book lovers and brilliant writers.

2010 Ubud Writers and Readers Festival will take place on 6-10 October.
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Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 2009: Indonesian Literature on the Global Stage

Diposting oleh Unknown on Senin, 12 Oktober 2009

Due to a very busy schedule of holidays, my work in BaLi (or affectionally shortened as “Banyak Libur”) was interrupted to a certain degree causing e-mails traffic jam in my inbox. Idul Fitri was not fully done as can be seen in the unfinished paving project in front of my office; but yet we are welcoming Galungan and Kuningan tomorrow. This year’s Ubud Writers and Readers Festival was jammed between those two holidays. Dreadfully, I had only one day to spare.

After a late start (was watching a splendid performance of ‘A Midsummer’s Night Dream’ the night before), I made it on time to Neka Museum just before Seno Gumira Ajidarma, Zeffry Alkatiri, Nelden Djakababa, NH Dini and Pam Allen (as moderator) took their seats. The panel session: Indonesian literature on the global stage. Or, lack thereof. The small audiences, consisted mostly of foreigners and as usual, only few locals, were obviously has been exposed to one or more works of Indonesian literatures. After a brief introduction of the writers, the moderator then moved to ask about how important it was for the writers to have their works translated and published abroad. Seno Gumira Ajidarma in his reknown candid self answered, “It’s not that important for me but it is important for Indonesia, to show the world that we can write.”

When the moderator asked to the writers about what was their early exposition to literature and if formal education got anything to do with it, the response were amusing. It is fair to say that all of the writers have had little brush with literature on their early ages. Nelden Djakababa admits frankly that she was traumatized by her school experience when she was pressed to memorizing Armin Pane’s ‘Belenggu’ instead of discussing it. Zeffry Alkatiri also admits that in his limited childhood, he was at first reading only magazines or comic books. Seno Gumira Ajidarma recalled Chairil Anwar poems as his early exposition on Indonesian literature and it was due to the fact that his poems was always in use at every school competition. The Grande Dame of Indonesian women writers, NH Dini, admits that she was lucky to have good teachers at school who shared with her the passion for reading, which ultimately made her a reader for life. In her soft Javanese accented voice, she says she's an autodidact writer who learns how to write by reading. To my surprise, she also admits to the audiences on how limited was her budget to buy books and how she counted on her friend in France to send her books. It was NH Dini, a well-known writer and I dread to think of another readers who share the same hardship on purchasing books which by the way, are getting more expensive each year.

Anton Kurnia, another panelist, came belatedly at that moment and in a brief summary (between sweating and talking, since it was very hot in Ubud) told the audiences about his reading (an adult magazine which published crime and sex articles together with Camus’s short story) and what it means for him to write. He calls it “solidarity in solitude” on how he writes about the country and its people. The panelists also discussed about the need to strengthen readership in Indonesia first, then later to bring it abroad. What kind of literature would it be if the work was not known in its original language and origin. It was quite a memorable session and as an Indonesian hoping to be one day hearing Seno Gumira Ajidarma or Danarto mentioned in the same breath as Vikram Seth or another Asian writer, I hope this event could be a platform for Indonesian wealth of literature to be known abroad.

To sums it up, Indonesian literature should first be founding a strong hold in Indonesia itself. It can be done only by erasing the grave prejudices most people have on the word ‘literature’ as a heavy, intimidating and intellectually superior meaning. Memorizing poems or classics surely are not enough to create a reader out of a student. Reading is a process. One moves from fairytales and storybooks to comics to short stories to poems to novels. Adapted film can also be another media to put Indonesia on international stage such as “Laskar Pelangi” to name one. Richard Oh, in his sparkling comment, said, “We are unfortunate that we weren’t colonialized by the British” as witnessed in the thriving growth of Indian or Malaysian literature and their easier access to international publication. Eric Setiawan’s “of Bees and Mist”, for example, has been published abroad and he might be a beginning of many Indonesian diaspora writers who can tell the world about Indonesia.

Before I ended this entry, I’d love to quote Seno Gumira Ajidarma when he says that ‘the love of literature doesn’t always to be found in school and writing doesn’t always about technique but also about things that you have to say’. Very well said, indeed.
P.S: Sorry, due to my camera being broken, I couldn't take any shot of this event.
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Come Ye Readers Wherever You Are...

Diposting oleh Unknown on Selasa, 14 April 2009


Click to enlarge the picture.
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Wrapping Up Ubud

Diposting oleh Unknown on Rabu, 05 November 2008

I missed a lot of interesting events in this Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. I missed Andrea Hirata's session and pre-launch of his fourth book, Maryamah Karpov. I missed book signings, street parade, book launch and priceless sessions. Business happened and I must bid farewell to the festival which just started to heated up.

On the first day of my arrival, I got the chance to joined a superb half-day workshop "Dramatic Ideas" by Tee O'Neill. My class is surrounded by picturesque hill view of Ubud. One just can't ask for a more pretty setting to start writing. Tee was such a supporting and kind teacher. I reached the peak of brain orgasm afterward.

my "classmates" scribbling

After Vikram Seth's session, I darted off to followed Camilla Gibb's Sweetness in the Belly book launch. It has been translated by Mizan Publishing into "Lilly:Pencarian Cinta Seorang Gadis Eropa di Etiopia". There, I met my favorite lit blogger, Sharon Bakar, whose splendid blog, I read almost daily. She kindly acknowledge my rambling blog and encouraging me to blog more about Indonesian literature.

On my last day, I managed to squeezed two sessions. Malaysians Making History with "Truly Asia" writers attending the session (Preeta Samarasan, Faisal Tehrani and Chiew-Siah Tei). With a still sleepy eyes and caffeine stirred-up brain, I went to the session and thoroughly enjoyed it. All three authors read excerpt of their work (I'm still, even until now, haunted by the harrowing excerpt on Preeta's book "Evening is the Whole Day").

Malaysian Making History session

The last session was just amazing. John Berendt, another star in this year festival, was such a charming persona. No wonder he managed to charmed his way to dig the eccentrics appeared in his books, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil & City of the Falling Angels. The session, Evoking a Sense of Place, John Berendt lucidly described his method of writing and in the way, throwing interesting anecdotes and jokingly called himself "state-of-the-art weirdo magnet". My moleskin is full of quotes. The other writer, Cameron Forbes, discussing his book "Under the Volcano: The Story of Bali". Both authors agreed upon the importance of setting to bring reader into their story.

Evoking a Sense of Place session

I was so upset upon leaving this amazing event of my annual brain stimulation. There can't be more perfect place to held this event than Ubud. Hopefully there won't be any incredulous thing preventing me to come next year.
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In Conversation with Vikram Seth

Diposting oleh Unknown on Selasa, 28 Oktober 2008

October 16, 2008. Neka Museum – Ubud.

This must be it. The most anticipated event in this year Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. The committee did an excellent job of choosing a bigger venue this time (I still remember the sweat in last year Kiran Desai’s session). The hall in Neka Museum was crowded half an hour before the session started. After successfully squishing my not-so-petit-frame into a chair together with recently bought books to be signed), the Vikram Seth stepped into the stage. Along with him was the moderator, Edwina Blush. She hilariously mimicked a smitten school girl who is about to meet her Teen Idol and huskily said, “I think you all know what it means.”

From then on, Vikram Seth told the audience about his childhood and how he was teasingly called ‘gregarious hermit’ by his school friends. Book was a retreat for this adorable self-deprecating author. A bottle of wine accompanied the conversation and at one point, after a constant wine refilling, an elderly audience next to me said to her friend “She really should stop drinking.” Vikram Seth also shared to the audience about his educational background, his interest to Chinese poetry and how Pushkin’s Onegin influenced his style of writing (hence, The Golden Gate).

The most memorable pieces from this session were the reading. He reads from his children book, Beastly Tales, a poem about The Hare and The Tortoise. Truly a session to remember.

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Literary Treasure from Ubud

Diposting oleh Unknown on Senin, 27 Oktober 2008

All successfully signed by the authors, of course ;-) like this copy of John Berendt's Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil:

or like this copy of Vikram Seth's Two Lives (VIKRAM SETH!):

God, I’m such a literary groupie.
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Baby of the Ball

Diposting oleh Unknown on Jumat, 17 Oktober 2008

Just when I thought I might be the youngest in the audience, I saw this cute literary baby. More to come about this year Ubud Writers and Readers Festival.
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SapiMalas is Lost in Literary Feast

Diposting oleh Unknown on Rabu, 15 Oktober 2008

Ubud Writers & Readers Festival… here I come! More stories, gossips and tales later.
Cheerio!
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Ubud Writers and Readers Festival

Diposting oleh Unknown on Minggu, 20 Juli 2008

Picture this: green tiered rice fields. Intellectually stimulating literary conversation. You, sipping margarita while brushing shoulders with world reknown writers. Evening book launch under the stars and poetry reading with free-flow cocktails. Sounds like a book worm idea of heaven, isn’t it?
You don’t have to actually breathe your last breath to experience all of that. Just help yourself and come to this year Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, which will take place from 14-19 October. Find yourself queuing for book sign by authors like Vikram Seth, John Berendt, Indra Sinha, Camilla Gibb and many others. And of course, you’ll meet this sapimalas over there. Book your flight and come to meet them (and me) in ‘one of the six best literary festivals in the world’ according to Harper’s Bazaar.

I can tell you for sure there will be a lot more going on than just literature. At least, if it is based from my previous experience.
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Bits and Pieces From Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 2007

Diposting oleh Unknown on Selasa, 02 Oktober 2007


I have to let all this words, saved inside cluttered drawers in my muddled brain, comes out. Inspiration, ideas, experiences, friendship formed, soulful solitude. Some of the words I could use to illustrate what I have been lived in last weekend, within the seen and the unseen, sekala and niskala. This is the fourth Ubud Writers and Readers Festival and shame on me, my first. To my justification, I wasn’t in Bali for the last two festival. The third, I was simply a coward chicken. So I carpe diem-ed the weekend and made it to ‘one of the six best literary festival in the world’ (according to Harper’s Bazaar U.K. February 2007).

I didn’t know what to expect, being an early 20-something with crappy English grammar, unnatural coyness when faced with native English speaker and went there sole-purposely to steal brilliant ideas from brilliant brains as well as get my bought-on-the-spot “The Inheritance of Loss” book signed by the celebrity writer of this year festival, Kiran Desai. I know, I should be mortified by myself by even admit that, but hell… Anyway, I made it to “In Conversation with Kiran Desai” discussion panel on Friday afternoon. She talks about her book, her childhood, her mother influence over her works (mother happened to be one of the famous post-colonial literature writer, Anita Desai), her fame and identity. It struck me how modest she is. One could easily be a giant-headed Booker Prize winner with all the fame that follows, but definitely not her.

By any chance, perhaps The Unseen would like us to collide that day, I met a kindred spirit. Li was her name. A petite girl, face nearly covered in black wavy curtain and adorned with sweet smile. She won a competition of writing only sixteen words essay, back in Kuala Lumpur. Here is her splendid winning entry:

“So, you’re dating him now?” The envious hairdresser said, approaching, scissors gleaming in the light.

I can still remember it by heart because I was impressed and burned in envy for it. I wish I can write razor-sharp sentence like her. I was charmed by Li and I sneaked out from the festival for few hours. We talked about our lifes, made a comparative study over Kuala Lumpur and Bali, as well as exchanging lingo and talked about books. She was my first encounter of female counter-part who reads Gabriel Garcia Marquez. What can I say? I was mesmerized. We bid farewell that since weirdly, she has to fly back to K.L that Friday evening, while the whole thing just started to heat up.

I managed to woke-up early the next day after a literary hangover to joined “ In Conversation with Shashi Tharoor”. I saw him on the Friday last session, having an animated discussion with Rana Dasgupta, Cyril Wong and the insanely witty moderator, Nury Vittachi; over alternative version of modernity which described prominent cities like Paris, London, New York as established while “Singapore sucks” (direct quote from Cyril Wong). Shashi Tharoor is “the almost Secretary General of United Nation”, lost to the current one, Ban-Ki Moon (tips to remember his name in Indonesian: Bang Imoen). It was amazing how I was able to watch and hear those brilliant minds in debate and hassled one another, of course in the way only brilliant minds are able to hassle.

For Saturday, I joined a writing workshop which I found out in the spot, was intended for intermediate writer. Great. I felt the familiar sensation of lurching stomach, sweated nausea and chilling spine. What did I got myself into? I felt worsen by the time the guest lecturer as well as writer, Jill Dawson, asked each and thirteen of us to tell a bit about ourselves. There was a journalist, a recent graduate from Creative Writing College, retired old men, two ex-pat ladies who seems like a diplomat housewives, a georgeus mixed-race lady in beautiful long blue-batik dress, a French lady and a cheerful Indian gay guy. I was the worst writer in the room, no doubt about that. I said to myself, now, you are in trouble. Big one. There is no Microsoft Word to help you automatically correcting grammar mistake or thesaurus to click when I try to make myself sounds more sophisticated and smart-like.

As well as the worst English speaker (with three exception, the rest of the people were English native speakers, I also happened to be the youngest. A real blow to my already-crumbling-to-pieces confidence). I spent the rest of the workshop scribbling furiously into my book and tried to avoid being pointed to read my writing. Much like when I was in high school and I ducked as low as possible from The Mean Eyes of Chemistry Teacher. In the end, I managed to learn something from it, especially about writing character and place which I hope would someday be put into proper writing. Jill Dawson was simply a wonderful teacher.

With one of my new-found friend, we went to Dragonfly to saw book launching which in that evening was a poem anthalogy titled ‘Terra’. There were poem recital by poet from East Timor, the georgeus Laksmi Pamuntjak and we left after a poetry reading by the sensational Miles Merrill (I was lucky to saw him before in which he performed alongside a Samoan poet (Tusiata Avia), Filipino young and happened to be cute poet (Angelo Suarez) as well as an Indonesian poet).

I treated myself with a delicious bratwurst, salad and fries dinner in Naughty Nuri’s (the most famous BBQ ribs in Bali). Hang-out a bit with the football fans who kept yelling at the poor flat screen, went back to my hotel and delved myself into books. The cricket was singing loudly from the dark rice field, heighten by croaking frogs asking for rain or simply a mating partner for that night.

The last discussion panel I attended on Sunday was “Something to Say”. The room was fully packed even before the previous session was over. Gone was the chill in the air sponsored by air-con. And so the stars arrived and no wonder it was packed. There was Deepika Shetty as moderator, Shashi Tharoor, Nury Vittachi and the Bali Bule, Made Wijaya. All stars in their own right. The same thing they have in common are they all are notorious columnist (perhaps except Mr.Tharoor who doesn’t seemed like a mean, vicious columnist bullies). It was delightfully funny, whole-heartedly honest and raucous since the finale was Nury Vittachi 'fictitiously putting himself in amorous position' on Julia Suryakusuma on the coffee table! Janet de Neefe, the founder of Ubud Writers and Readers Festival was given standing ovation for her dedication and spirit.

The festival next year would bring new leadership perhaps also bigger venues since the current one (Indus and The Left Bank Lounge) simply wouldn’t be enough with growing numbers of book lovers pouring in. To close this blog, I would simply stated that the festival live up to its publication and I do really hope I would see more of Balinese people in the crowds. What happen with all of you, my Balinese men and women? None of you showed up if you were not in press or a guest speaker or in media-relation. People came as far as Europe and Australia, especially for the occasion. We live here. I would unquestionably be there next year. What about you?

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