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A Traveling Class with Don George

Diposting oleh Unknown on Selasa, 06 November 2012




I literally run along a concrete pathway to be on time for a literary appointment this morning. I run because the last fifteen minutes was spent going back and forth trying to decipher where Swasti Eco Cottages actually is and a long early drive is something I’ve never been good at doing. The second helpful man finally gives me the correct clue and thus, allow me to find my way to what already feels like a treasure quest. Much like Dorothy and the yellow brick road, a continuous yellow flower usually used in Balinese offering, was placed to show this sleepy traveler that it is indeed the right way. After all, yellow flower in the canang sari offering does symbolize the power of intuition.  

Eventually, 20 participants are sitting in the open-air bamboo bale. Few Australian, some Indonesian, an American. A diverse, jovial and eager to learn bunch of people; those classmates of mine. Most of us are inspired to be a writer, some has published her and his works and one is currently writing a travel book. Our classroom is surrounded by greenery and occasional bleating from pet goats in the compound can be heard together with a crescendo of cock-a-doodle-doo and wild bird calls. Don George, a respected and well-known travel writer from the States is our teacher for the one day writing workshop. 


Travel writing seeks to illuminate a place; educating and inspiring people about the world and sharing what one’s learnt in one’s travel experience.“It’s about figuring out what you want to say, what and how did you learned in that journey,” says Don. It is also about excavating and deconstructing your experience. He takes us aroud the eco cottages and shares with us his experiences of editing, writing and traveling around the globe. “A sign of less sophisticated writer is using too much adjectives,” he says and oh boy, don’t we make fun of that statement afterward.


a delicious and healthy lunch provided by helpful staff of Swasti Eco Cottage, we continue our class by writing a paragraph about our experience in that place. Don gives us a liberty to write about anything we find interesting and later urges us to read it aloud (gasp!). For about twenty minutes all I hear are a scratch on paper, rickety bamboo chair being nervously moved and twenty brains excavating hidden, sophisticated adjectives from dusty drawers of dictionary. Few encouraging words and nervous glances later, the first writer speaks up, including yours truly. I’ve been joining a workshop like this a few time and only this time, I find the courage to read my writing in public and that writing becomes the first opening paragraph of this entry. 

A successul piece of writing is when the writer managed to guide the reader to experience what he or she has experienced. Hence, pay attention to the details and always be curious. 

Being in a travel writer set of mind allows you to become a better traveler. 

The Q and A session afterward is truly fascinating. Don tells us some behind-the-scenes anecdotes and stories and tips on how to get published, his favorite travel book and how travel writing won’t make anyone rich but “you get rich in the account of experience.” He even read an excerpt  from his 1978 notebook when Bali was part of his trip. 

This might be the best workshop class I have ever attended so far in Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. I don’t think I will drop everything and take the plunge to be a full time travel writer or a digital nomad anytime soon, but this class is giving me a more thorough understanding on how to be a better writer, an open-minded traveler and perhaps, if I’m lucky and if I work on my writing hard enough, get published. 
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Bali: Now

Diposting oleh Unknown on Kamis, 19 Januari 2012


"In Bali, everything is about “fun”. People has all the access for that easily. If Alcohol is not satisfying enough, you can combine it with weed, or move to drugs, or just run into sex, or all of them. “Get wasted” they say. Sooner or later you would be dragged to see things they way those people do ” see man or woman as simply a potential sex buddy” instead of trying to see who they really are.

In another part of the island, some people come to find “answers”. They practice meditation, they do yoga, they eat expensive healthy food, they go to ashram to find some Gurus to tell them what they actually already have inside.

After 6 years, i still find it so difficult to find something that is real in Bali. Left alone to find real people. The local seems to keep losing their true identity, and the comer finds it as heaven to just exploit and destroy the nature of the island."

Those are excerpts I borrowed from a friend's blog, the talented Sita Teofani. She has lived in Bali for a few year and now tell the tale about her love/hate relationship with this cosmopolitan island. Her words mirrors my sentiment on what Bali has become. Sex. Drugs. Alcohol. Endless parties. Exploitation. Traffic. Over-population. The island, if She could talk, will surely grumble on the weight She has to carry.

I'm afraid for Bali. I'm afraid for this tiny island that everybody wants to own and pillage. I'm afraid what will we become in the next decade.

Will we persist? Will we be strong enough to absorb and re-create the best of current condition? Will we have a strong, wise and smart leader who think more than just his governing period and what he could benefit from it? Will we, as Balinese, able to unite and intelligently have our voices heard? Will we be able to criticize what needs to be criticized, focus on what's important and able to see beyond our limitation?

Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 2011 picked a wise quotation from a wise Balinese priest, Ida Pedanda Made Sidemen: "...idep beline mangkin makinkin mayasa lacur, tong ngelah karang sawah, karang awake tandurin..."

"...my intention now, pursuing the life of simplicity, (since) I don't have any ricefield, I (shall) cultivate the land within myself"

It is time, isn't it my fellow Balinese?

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This Weekend Will Be..

Diposting oleh Unknown on Senin, 03 Oktober 2011


funfuckintastic.

Pardon the f-word. Can't help it. October has always been my 'do-not-disturb-me' month since 2007. Ubud Writers and Festival is the sole reason. This lit groupie has been going around the island in a rampant buying trip to get as many books as possible and have them signed later. I will be in Ubud on Saturday and Sunday, attending as many session as possible and jotting down the smart lines those authors throwing to the audience.

I'm especially super excited to meet and hear from these authors:

Trinity 'The Naked Traveler' (whose blog I've been reading for few years about her adventures or misadventures as the rare breed of Indonesian backpackers. Her writing has always been fun, inspiring, enjoyable and self-deprecating)

Agustinus Wibowo (another breed of Indonesian travel writer/photographer who has a deep love and interest in Middle East countries)

Junot Diaz (I've only read one book of his but it's enough to made me in love with his work)

Alberto Manguel (the Father of All Bookish People and Thing. I hope they will sell his books because it's been almost impossible to find those).

Andrea Hirata (the Indonesian literary wunderkind who one day just started to write and writing is what he has been doing since then. A musical show based on his book just recently performed in Singapore).

and the others.... talented writers, poets, musician, artists who comes from the farthest corner of this globe and made it to Bali. I will see you all later.
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How to Be a Good Tourist in Bali

Diposting oleh Unknown on Jumat, 02 September 2011

Dear fellow Indonesian,

First of all, please don’t take this open letter too seriously. Treat it as a loving, concerned letter your wise Tante Dewi might sent you after she heard how you misbehaved in your vacation. Have you ever heard of a complain made by your friend who just came back from Bali with his family: “Oh the Balinese are awful! They ignored us completely when we ordered and served the bules first even when we obviously arrived earlier”. I can’t deny it happened before and it will happen again. You can blame the post-colonial mentality or you can ask that friend of yours this question: “what did you do to get such treatment?”

You see, born and bred in this small island, I’ve seen you, my dearest fellow Indonesian, here annually, repeatedly. My brother even joked that there are 3 kinds of citizenship in Bali during high season: WNI, WNA and W.N.L (based on your car plates get it?). It seems like some sort of a national reflex in which Bali will be the answer whenever someone asked ‘where should we go for the next holiday’. I totally understand the urge of not thinking during holiday. Aren’t we all just love to not thinking of where to go next, how to get there or where to stay? No research needed. Just pack, bring your Nintendo gaming kids and voila, you’ve arrived in Bali. It just can’t be easier than that... except there are thousands more who thinks like you. Hence, the shocking, horrible, congested traffic from airport to Legian, where you’ve booked your hotel. Even locals and expats alike, are either hiding or fleeing the island whenever this happens.

The first best advice I could give you, one comerade to the other, is this: do not come here during high season or God forbid, peak season. You’ll have to pay extra for the flight and the hotel. You’ll have to queue in every porkish restaurants you’ve planned to eat and trust me, licking your pork ribs while being surrounded by impatient pork vultures who wish they’re beside you sitting and licking, is one of the most unpleasant eating experience you could have in your life, as experienced by yours truly recently.

Second advice: go outside Kuta for real Bali experience. Yes, yes, I understand it is very hard to come to Bali and not posing in front of Hard Rock Hotel. It’s unimaginable. It’s like going to Paris and not see the Eiffel Tower, or some sort. Kindly know that Kuta is not Bali. It’s a No Man’s Land of drunk Australian hipsters who barely legal to consume alcohol or first time backpackers who didn’t know any better. There’s way more of Bali than that. Hire a driver and stay far away from the crowd, that’s where the real Bali is. Go north, south or east. Hike, bike, swim and walk. Shut down your BlackBerry for a while and stop updating your Facebook status. Take the iPad away from your kids. Be a family. Chances are you’ll meet some of the nicest locals you will ever meet in you travel.

We know now that you’re a good tipper, easy spender and your wives shops for the whole neighborhood. Yes, we learned our lesson not to just counting on the Australians since that awful thing happened on 2002. We learned to bend our rules and put up with ten people staying in just one room. But really, it is so easy to earn our respect (you don’t even need to raise your voice and waving your platinum card). We couldn’t care less how much money you have back home, that’s not how we judge you. When you’re in a crowded restaurant, please wait to be seated, lower your intonation and volume then wait patiently. We’ll come. A nice, simple gesture like calling the waiter ‘bli’ or the waitress ‘mbok’ will get our attention. We tend to serve you even faster if you managed to not wearing the barong or bintang shirt. FYI, no self respected Balinese will wear those outside their home.

Bali is shrinking. There are more villas and less rice field. God knows what will happen in a decade. We might be known as The Island of Villas instead of temples. One thing for sure, you should know that as Balinese we have a high pride. We can put up with anything: Dutch, terrorists, Bakrie. We’re being called ‘noble savages’ all those years ago, not for nothing. We can smile our widest smile to you and ignore you completely if you’re being rude at us. One thing we can’t put up is when you’re being disrespectful because we do take it personally. After all, being on holiday doesn’t necessarily means we also let our manners on vacation either, aren’t we?

Sincerely yours,

SapiMalas

p.s: This is my personal observation. All the characters and places mentioned are real. However any resemblance to actual person is purely intentional (you know who you are, you rude bastard who cuts line at my queue and staring at me while I nibble on my pork ribs).

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Hunting Books in Bali Part II

Diposting oleh Unknown on Kamis, 30 Juni 2011

Two years after Hunting Books in Bali Part I, I finally able to sit down and write a decent entry. Ubud as the art, culture and spiritual center of Bali has the best selection of books in the whole island. Travelers actually go there to read and contemplate, in between their busy schedule of meditation, yoga and aura reading classes. The annual Ubud Writers and Readers Festival also help to spark the literature virus to the small town. In no particular order, here they are.

Pondok Pekak Library and Learning Center

Aside from being the best library in Bali, where you can borrow books with all sort of genre during your stay in Bali, Pondok Pekak also offers art classes like Balinese dance, carving, painting and music. They have a very comprehensive collection for Indonesian interest. There’s also a special section books for sale with a very good price. I found some real treasure there (Frida Kahlo’s biography and The Memory Keepers Daughter). Deposit is required.

Ganesha Bookshop

Definitely my favorite used book shop in the island. There are many others but you can always count Ganesha for some sophisticated and interesting literature selection. Ubud sure does invites well read travelers from all over the globe. Prices started from 50,000 – 100,000 IDR and you can trade back for half the price. They recently put on an AC inside and thoughtfully provide wooden stool for a comfortable book browsing. There is also another Ganesha in Petitenget, housed inside Biku (tea house and a bookshop!) with comfy leather chair and romantic reading light.

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Bad Romance and Scarlett O’Hara’s Wisdom

Diposting oleh Unknown on Sabtu, 12 Februari 2011

I haven’t blogged for a while. Or ever. I’ve been so lazy all I did was putting another blogger’s post (with source stated, of course) just for the sake of posting. This blog named Sapi Malas not for nothing after all. 2010 has been quite a ride. Up and down the merry-go-round vertical tower of terrror like that scene in Zombieland, minus the zombie.

Since 2008 when I had two beloved leaving me for Hereafter, I’d like to think my life mirrorred Scarlett O’Hara post-Civil War. Ok, I didn’t have to dig my garden to find a piece of dried carrot (or kill a scoundrel) but now I do get why Scarlett became such a manipulative bitch and fierce business woman. Both of us need a security. Money, family, social standing. I’ve spent three years now doing business. Playing adult, trying to be slightly manipulative. Experienced my first global economy crash. I didn’t pass with flying color but I managed to keep the company floating, family fed and bills paid. Gone were the days when Scarlett I wore light green dress, battling my eyelashes and think of nothing except Ashley boys.

Except now, more than ever, I seriously need a Rhett Butler. With moustache or without, I need a big, tall, dark, worldly, humorous and kind guy who will envelopes me with love and said things like You should be kissed, and often, and by someone who knows how.” Aren’t we all? Despite the popular belief, made even more popular by Julia Roberts who got hit by a dashing Javier Bardem in the middle of nowhere in Ubud, Bali is not the perfect place to fall in love. I think it is the perfect place to be in love or have a mind blowing “From Here to Eternity” moments by the beach, but that’s it. For you who magically found love in Bali, you can stop reading now because this post is just a dark, twisted and cynical (albeit true) rambling of a depressive single near Valentine’s Day. For you who doesn’t and have no date for the upcoming Bloody Valentine, do continue reading.

Bali is being promoted as The Ultimate Honey Moon Destination. I went all the way to Chengdu, a nice city in Sichuan Province, China and told a teenage receptionist at a hostel that I’m from Bali. Her immediate gush is: Oh, I want to go there for honeymoon! (to which I just cringed). Grown up in Bali, I’ve seen love in all shapes and reasons. Newlyweds holding hands even when they shopped or eat, holiday flings that started in a foam party fuelled by 10k Bintang beers, Opa and Oma walking with their strollers and Birkenstocks by the beach, desperately lonely older gay man riding a scooter with a dark handsome youth, tanned and young and lovely girls meets a thick belly and even thicker wallet guys one night at a bar. Occassionally, if I’m lucky I witness a devastating love like the one I saw a few weeks ago at the airport when two lovers didn’t want to let go. Do I get bitter by witnessing all those “ loves”? Perhaps.

To be honest, Bali is all about sperm released. Some found their pre-destined place and nine months later, a baby made in Bali will be born. Some are just being spent and dumped. Ask the next sweet couple you met on the street where did they fall in love. Eight out of ten it won’t be Bali.

I’ve kissed some frogs. None of them turns out to be a Prince. I’ve given up those Disney crafted illusions and put it in a box named ‘childhood’. The frogs that I’ve been kissed are mostly commitment phobic or only interested on what I wear behind my fabulous flowery dress instead of inside me or simply a nice guy at a wrong time and wrong place. Why is it so difficult this whole dating things? Seriously. I’m easy. Just romance me, make me laugh and I’m yours.

-------pause------

---------gulping down chai tea---------

Sorry. I sounded desperate in that last sentence, aren’t I? Well, I do. I need my freakin’ Rhett Right Now. I saw a French movie few years back. Russian Dolls was the name. In the last part, the narrator said something that got me thinking. It went something like this: “ Do you know Russian dolls? At first there’s only one big doll then you opened the lid and inside you’ll find another doll, then another doll then another doll. Just right at the moment you got tired of it, you’ll find the one and last small doll that has no lids. That’s it. That’s the one for you”.

Which means that tonight I’ll dress up and go out. I’ll order some drinks and have a swell good time.

Afterall, tomorrow is another day.

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